Dressmaker&#39;s garment drafting tool



Aug. 26, 1941. c. LEIN ET AL DRESSMAKERS GARMENT DRAFTING TOOL Filed Sept. 12, 1959 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 622/4 450v. 559F744 Zf/A/ K544 0/744.

INVENTORS ATTORNEYS Patented Aug. 26, 1941 ('fielialcin, Jersey CityiT-N. J., and Bertha Lein Kealoha, New York, N. Y.

Application September 12, 1939, SerialNo. 294,438

1 Claim. (01. 33-11) This invention relates to the art of tailoring and more particularly it pertains to the laying out and determination of lines of cut for forming from the raw material, the several sections from which a coat, waist or upper portion of similar garments are to be constructed.

An object of the present invention resides in the provision of a novel tool of the aforementioned type, the use of which greatly simplifies the heretofore tedious and uncertain operations generally attendant cutting out the several sections which go to form upper body-garments such as coats, waists and the like.

A further object of the invention resides in the provision of a novel tool which may be emwhich purpose, reference willbe hadto the ac- V companying drawings, in which:

Figure 1 is a schematic plan view illustrating one face of a tool constructed in accordance with the present invention,

Figure 2 is a schematic plan view illustrating the opposite face of'the .tool,

Figure 3 is a schematic plan view illustrating the manner in which the tool is employed for laying out one side ofthe front of the garment,

Figure 4 is a schematic plan view illustrating the manner in which the tool is employed for laying out one side of the back of a garment,

Figure 5 is a schematic plan view illustrating the manner in which the tool is employed for laying out a garment of the close or so-called form fitting type,and; V

Figure 6 is a schematiciplan view illustrating the manner in which the tool is employed to lay out a garment sleeve. i

Referring more specifically to the drawings, and particularly to Figures 1 and 2 thereof, the toc-lco-mprises a relatively large body portion 10 and a relatively smallbody portion vH. 'These two body portions are connected together by a relatively thinor narrow neck portion 12. The larger body'portion in has a curved end wall I3,

one side of which is formed by a straight edge I9. The opposite curved edge is designated 2| and it merges into a straight edge 23 which terminates at 25, which point is located closely I adjacent the neck portion [2. From. the outer end of the straight edge l9, which straight edge is relatively short and disposed substantially transversely of the body portion in, there is a straight edge 21 which also terminates at the neck portion l2, The neck portion I2 being relatively small as heretofore described, the two straight edges 23and21 converge in the direction of the neck I2.

The relatively small body portion II has a curved edge 3|, which merges into a straight edge 33, which in turn connects as at 35 with a straight end edge '31. The end edge 31 con nects with a straight side edge 39 oppositely disposed with respect to the straight edge 33 which merges into a slightly curved edge 4| which in turn terminates at the point 25 heretofore mentioned.

This face of the toolis provided with three cardinal points designated 43,45 and 41. The two cardinal points 43 and '45 are located upon the curved edge l5 of the main body portion I0, while the cardinal point 41 is located at a point slightly removed from the curved edge 2| substantially transversely opposite the cardinal point 45. Associated with each of the cardinal points 43 and 45, there is'an arrow and these arrows are designated 49 and 5! respectively. The cardinal points 43 and 45 differ in character from the cardinal point 41 in that they are formed preferably by markings upon the surface of the body portion which is formed of any suitable rigid material, while the cardinal point 41 is in the form of a perforation which extends entirely through the body portion of the tool. The cardinal points 43 and 45 are designated by arrows A and B respectively, which arrows may also be marked upon the surface of the tool.

Upon its opposite face, the tool is provided with four cardinal points-53, 55, 51 and 59, the latter being formed by the perforation which forms the cardinal point 41 heretofore mentioned. The

point 43'upon the reverse 'face of the tool, while the cardinal point 51 coincides with the cardinal point 45. The cardinal point 53, however, is located uponthe curved edge 13 of the body portion liland has o corresponding cardinal point one end [5 or which terminates in a notch 11, .5 upon the o posite face oi-the tool.

The cardinal points 55 and 51 are designated by arrows C and D respectively while the cardinal point 53 is designated by the-arrow E, these cardinal points and arrows being preferably formed by markings directly upon the surface of the tool.

That face of the tool which carries the cardinal points 53 to 59 inclusive is also provided with a plurality of linear scales or measurements BI, 63, 65 and 67. The scale 6| extends along the straight edge I! beginning at the neck portion l2 and terminating at the outer end of the straight edge IQ of the notch ll. The scale 63 extends along the straight edge 23 and a portion of the curved edge 2|, the scale reading from the, zero point 69 which is located at that point where the straight edge 23 connects with the curved edge M. The scale 65 extends throughout the length of the straight edge 33 and a portion of the curved edge 3| and reads in the direction of the straight end edge 31 of the relatively smaller body portion H. The scale 67 extends along the straight edge 39 and reads from the zero (0) point 69 in the direction of the straight edge 31.

The manner in which the tool is employed in laying out a coat pattern, will now be described.

In Figure 3, there is shown a pattern for one side of the garment front and said pattern is obtained in the following manner. On suitable pattern material such as paper, two lines such as X and Z are drawn at right angles to each other and these lines form the guides for proper positioning of the tool. At spaced intervals from the line Z, three lines H, J and K are formed. The line H designates the chest measurement of the garment front, the line J designating the under arm circumference measurement, while the line K designates the bust line of the garment front.

To provide the proper curve and location of the neck line M of this section of the garment, the tool is positioned with its scaled face up and with its guide line 58 coinciding with the line Z as illustrated in Figure 3. The notch formed by the reduced neck portion [2 is then positioned along the length of the line Z, the point at which it is positioned being determined by a measurement taken in this position, the neck lineM is scribed upon the pattern material, the curved edge 3| being used. The shoulder seam line N is next scribed by using the straight edge 27 of the tool, the length of this line being determined by a measurement also taken from said figure.

This line N terminates, for example, at I35 and v to form the arm hole line P, the tool is positioned as illustrated in dotted lines in Figure 3, with its cardinal point E coinciding with the meeting point [0| of the two lines J and K, the tool being moved about this point It! until it meets the point I00, the arm hole line P being then scribed around the curved edge l5 of the tool. Thus it will be seen that when employed as described, a pattern for one front section of a garment may be formed and the other front section beingmerely the reverse, the same pattern may be employed to form the same. The line B determines the length of the garment and the line Q the side seam line of the front of the garment both of which are determined by measurements taken'from' the figure to be fitted. The point' lfl3is determined by a measurement taken from the figure to be fitted and after'determined, this point is connectedwith the-line-K by a line S to form the upper-"front line of the garment.

The pattern for one-half of the back of the garment is formed as follows: Two lines I05 and IE6 are scribed at right angles to each other and the tool is placed thereon as shown in full lines in Figure 4, the point I01 at which the tool is posit oned being determined by a measurement taken from the figure to be fitted and extended from along the line I06 from the line I05 the measurement being one-quarter of the neck measurement and taken on the scale 61 of the tool. The neck line IE6 is now scribed after which the tool is angularly positioned as indicated by the dotted line position l in Figure 4 and the shoulder seam line I09 is scribed, its length being determined by a measurement taken from the neck line to the top of the arm hole of the figure to be fitted. The arm hole line It) is now scribed by tilting the tool to the dotted line position 3 in Figure 4.

In Figure 6 I have illustrated the manner in which the instrument is employed in cutting out a garment sleeve. In this figure the material from which the sleeve is to be formed is designated H5. A starting line H6 is scribed transversely of this piece of material and this line is divided into four sections by lines H1, H8 and H9 which extend at right angles to the line H3. The scribed line -I Ill is centrally disposed with respect to the line H5 and that portion to the right of this center line H8 in Figure 6 forms the rear portion of thesleeve. The four divisions formed by the lines H1, H8 and H9 are of equal transverse dimension along the line H3, but it is tobe noted that the line H9 is longer than the line H1 and shorter than the line H8.

After the material has been marked oil as above described, the instrument is positioned thereon'as illustrated in full'lines in Figure 6 with its cardinal point 55 coinciding with a point [30 on the center line H8 which point I3!) is determined by ameasurement from the starting line H6, which measurement is taken from the figure to be fitted. In this full line position, the cardinal point 5! will coincide with a point l3! on the line H9, this point also being determined bya measurement taken from the figure to be fitted. With the tool in this position, a line following the curved edge l5 of the tool is scribed between the two lines H8 and H9. This position of the tool is designated l in Figure 6 of the drawings.

The tool is next placed in the position designated 2 in Figure 6, that is with its cardinal point 43 coinciding with the line H8 and its cardinal point 45 coinciding with the line Hi. In this position, a-line following the curved edge [5 of the tool is scribed between the two lines H1 and I I8.

The tool is next placed inthe position designed 3 in Figurefi, in which position, the cardinal point 43 of the tool coincideswith the point i35, the tool being moved until its edge coincides with the line I l? in which position a line following the curved edge l3 of the tool is scribed between the line H! and the point I35.

The tool is next placed in the position designated 4 in Figure 6, in which position, its cardinal point coincides with the point I36, the tool beingmoved juntil itsfside'edg'e l5 coincides with the line I 19; In this position'a line following the curved edge 15 of the tool is scribed between the line H9 and the point 136.

Upon the completion of the several afore-described operations, the'sleeve pattern is completedand it'isbnIynecessary to lay the same upon the material from which the sleeve is to be formed and mark said material according to the pattern.

In Figure 5, I have. illustrated a still further manner of using the tool, this figure showing the manner in which the tool is employed to make a pattern for a tight fitting or so-called military fit.

In this Figure 5, the pattern which is designated I50 is formed as heretofore described. That portion designated II is the portion to be removed to form the tight fit. To determine the proper dimensions of this area I 5I, a point I52 is located on the waist line J of the pattern. This point is'determined by measuring inwardly of the pattern from the right hand side thereof in Figure 5, the distance from said right hand side of the pattern being determined by a measurement taken from the figure to be fitted.

The tool is then positioned as illustrated in full lines in Figure 5 and a line I58 scribed 0n the the full line position to the dotted line position is arbitrary, depending only upon the extent to which the military fit is desired. The, material designated I5I between the two lines I58 and I59 is then removed and the two lines brought together and secured by a seam thus providing the necessary military fit to the finished garment.

From the foregoing it will be readily apparent that the several objects of the invention are accomplished and that the invention provides a novel tool or instrument by which the art of cutting garments is greatly simplified.

Having thus described the invention, what is claimed as new and what it is desired to secure by Letters Patent of the United States, is:

A tool of the type described comprising a relatively large body portion having two straight side edges connected by a curved end edge, and a relatively smaller body portion connected to said large body portion by a narrow neck, said relatively small body portion having a straight end edge, and straight side edges merging into curved portions which terminate at the neck portion.

CELIA LEIN.

BERTHA LEIN KEALOHA. 

